Climbing Experience

From Sir Edmund Hillary to the weekend warrior we are always pushing our own personal limits by going farther, faster, and of course higher than we had even been before. Our quest to challenge ourselves is what is so fulfilling when climbing a peak, running a marathon, or sailing a long distance regatta. With all these challenges come risks, and none more dangerous than that of high altitude. Altitude is generally associated with extreme conditions such as avalanche danger, hidden crevasses, freezing temperatures, remote locations, and of course limited oxygen, and if not properly planned for can cause serious consequences. Whenever doing any hiking or climbing at altitude we always prepare ourselves to have the highest chance of success whether on Mt. Whitney at 14,505 ft. or Aconcagua at 22,841 ft. When referring to preparation we are talking about your physical training, your gear requirements, and your daily routine (fluid intake, Pulse Oximeter Readings, supplements, food consumption and understanding the signs and symptoms of altitude sickness) on the mountain to optimize your chances of success.

First of all what is high altitude? Altitude can be defined on the following scale: High (8,000 – 12,000 feet), Very High (12,000 – 18,000 feet), and Extremely High (18,000+ feet). There are no specific factors such as age, sex, or physical condition that correlate with susceptibility to altitude sickness. Some people get it and some people don’t, and some people are more susceptible than others. Most people can go up to 8,000 feet (2,438 meters) with minimal effect.

Your physical training is the foundation required for any mountain climbing experience regardless of overall elevation. If you want to give yourself the best chance of reaching the summit specific training is essential. When training for altitude our programs follow that designed by Mark Twight, world renowned fitness training, mountaineer, and author of “Extreme Alpinism: Climbing Light, Fast & High”, and focus on distinct stages of preparation. The training program revolves around multiple stages with increased intensity aimed to peak at the appropriate time before departure. The goal of the program is to develop the strength and stamina for sustained physical ability over long periods of time as well as increasing your anaerobic threshold (AT) for improved performance at altitude. Your stages of training include; foundation building, power training (PT), cardiovascular power endurance (CPE) (increasing your aerobic capacity), cardiovascular extensive endurance training & muscular endurance training (CEE) (long term endurance with moderate level of physical output), tapering & rest, and peaking. Examples of recommended activities include; PT – Squats, lunges, step ups, CPE – Mountain biking, hill climbs with pack weight, hypoxic swims, CEE – Distance running, 10 + mile hikes, cycling.

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